Allen Meadows rates our white wines - 2019 vintage special

Allen Meadows, American wine critic and publisher of the quarterly newsletter and website Burghound.com.

In its issue 83 “2019 and 2018 Côte d’Or Blancs”, published in the third quarter of 2021, he evaluated 1,500 wines, including 11 wines from Domaine d’Ardhuy, 4 of them are available on our online store.

Régisseur (estate manager) Vincent Bottreau runs this very large 39.5 ha domaine of which the holdings are divided between 7.5 ha in chardonnay and 31 devoted to pinot noir. He described the 2019 vintage in an intriguing way, saying that:

“it was at once simple but complicated. The spring was complicated because we risked frost damage on the 4th of April and then again between the 11th and 15th; in fact we used smudge pots for the first time ever. Ultimately there wasn’t much damage though the cool temperatures did have a deleterious effect on the flowering, which of course caused shatter, shot berries and generally lower yields. The rest of the season was relatively straightforward as conditions were hot and dry and thus there was no disease pressure to speak of. We picked from the 4th to the 19th of September and brought in clean and ripe fruit that averaged around 13.5% with yields of 33 hl/ha in pinot and about 34 hl/ha in chardonnay, which isn’t very much. The fermentations were relatively easy to manage as we happily had no stoppages. By contrast, the malos in white took longer than average to finish. As to the wines, I am very excited about them as they have excellent balance with better acidities than we expected. 2019 is the kind of vintage that should be approachable young but have no trouble aging over the longer-term.”

THE GRADED WINES AVAILABLE ON OUR SHOP!

Puligny-Montachet 1^er Cru « Sous le Puits » – 90-92/100

There is a phenolic hint (think olive oil nuances) to the ripe blend of both white and yellow orchard fruit that is trimmed in enough wood to mention. The suave yet attractively vibrant medium-bodied flavors are not quite as mineral-driven but offer more depth and persistence on the balanced and more firmly structured finale. In contrast to all of the preceding wines, this will need at least a few years of bottle aging first.

Savigny-lès-Beaune « Clos des Godeaux » – 87-90/100

Hints of grapefruit and lemon peel suffuse the ripe aromas of white flowers and poached pear. The lavishly rich, round and sappy medium-bodied flavors possess very good energy on the clean, slightly firmer and somewhat drier finish that also reflects a touch of wood.

Meursault « Les Pellans » – 87-89/100

A different aromatic profile presents notes of petrol, hazelnut and ripe confit-like scents of pear and apple. The rich, round and again lavishly rich flavors coat the palate with dry extract while display acceptable length on the slightly warm finish that is not especially complex at present. This too should drink well young.

Pernand-Vergelesses « Les Boutières » Blanc – 87-89/100

More subtle though still perceptible wood frames the mildly exotic aromas of white peach, pear and passion fruit. There is good density to the generously proportioned flavors that are shaped by citrus-tinged acidity on the clean and moderately dry finish that also displays a touch of rusticity.